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Thursday, January 4, 2018

Solstice Dream - Borders


The stitch along instructions and tips for Solstice Dream blocks include the needles and types of threads used in this project.  Thread colors are included in the pattern.  Book pages refer to those in the Right (or Left) Handed Embroiderer's Companion available in my Etsy shop.


Before we begin with the borders, let's talk a bit about stitching the blocks together.  I stitched the blocks together by machine using a 1/4" seam allowance.  It's important to pin the blocks together - say 5 or 6 pins on a 6 1/2" side- before stitching to avoid having the wool stretch as you stitch.

Also, make certain that you don't catch any embellishment stitches as you sew the blocks together.

I used steam in my iron to press the seams open and suggest using a Strip Stick under the seam allowance as you press.  This handy tool helps you to press the open seam flat without flattening the embellishment stitches.  

Adding Borders:

Option 1:  Cut the strips to size then applique and embellish as much as possible before sewing the strip to the block section.
Advantage to Option 1 is that a strip is easier to handle for applique and embellishment than the entire quilt.

Disadvantage to Option 1 is that you must be careful to pin the pieces in place so they line up when the strips are stitched to the block section.

Option 2:  Add the border strips to the block section before adding the applique and embellishment.
Advantage to Option 2 is that it is easy to match up the vines and leaves as they turn around each corner.

Disadvantage to Option 2 is that you must be very careful to avoid crushing the embellishment on the blocks as you work on the borders.

I have made 3 Solstice Dream quilts this year and tried both options.  When the advantages/disadvantages of each option are considered, decide which method will be easier for you.

Bird:

Beak:  Using Silken Pearl #5 in a #1 Milliner needle, stitch a Woven Picot (page 158) over the beak.  Take a small stitch with the same thread at the point of the beak to secure it in place.

Wing:
Using Sea Grass in a #1 Milliner needle, Back Stitch (page 10) a line across the wing.  Add 3 Fly Stitches (page 91) on each side of the back-stitched line.  Thread Dazzle into a #24 Chenille needle and whip the back-stitched line and add a Lasy Daisy/Detached Chain (page 46) in each Fly Stitch.

Outline the wing with Sea Grass in a #1 Milliner.  I like to use the Milliner needle with Sea Grass as it can act as a laying tool to keep the Sea Grass from twisting as you stitch.

Tip:  To keep the Sea Grass flat it may be ironed or run through a thread conditioner such as Thread Heaven before stitching.

Body:
Using Shimmer Floss in a #24 Chenille needle, Fly Stitch (page 91) along the bird's belly.

Outline the bird (except wing and beak) with Pekinese Stitch (page 13) using Silken Pearl #5 for the back stitches and Dazzle for the weaving.

Eye:  My eye beads have just 1 hole in the yellow center.  I use a regular cotton thread to come up from the back, through the eye bead, then through a small black seed bead and back through the eye bead to the back - repeating several times to make certain it is secured.


Nest:
Using Silken Pearl #5 in a #24 Chenille needle outline the outer and inner nest with Chain Stitch (page 43), adding a row of Chain Stitch below the inner nest (see above photo).

Egg:
Using Silken Pearl #5 in a #24 Chenille needle outline the egg with Coral Knot Stitch (page 64).
With the same thread in a #1 Milliner needle, stitch a Bullion Knot (page 18) rose inside the egg.

Berries:
Outline all of the berries with Bullion Knots (page 18) using Silken Pearl #5 in a #1 Milliner Needle.

Small Leaves:
With #5 Pearl Cotton in a #24 Chenille needle, Fly Stitch (page 91) the center of each leaf and outline with Back Stitch (page 10) (refer to photo of nest above).



Large Leaves:
Using #5 Pearl Cotton and #24 Chenille needle, add Back Stitches (page 10) about 1/4" from the edge of the large leaves.  Fly Stitch ( page 91) in the center of each large leaf with the same thread.

Quilting:
I hope you have enjoyed the photographs of the amazing machine quilting on my blocks.  The extremely talented Cindy Paulson of Quilted Connection quilted Solstice Dream for me, adding her creative touch to make my quilt awesome.  I asked Cindy to quilt the following words in the border:
Grow wings - left border
Take Flight - bottom border
Soar - right border

A variety of threads and stitches were used to embellish Solstice Dream in an effort to add dimension to each block  I also added a copper tag to the bee skep in Block 6 which is now available in my Etsy Shop.


I sincerely hope you have enjoyed making the Solstice Dream.  I loved making every stitch - and yes, the third was as enjoyable as the first.






Pretty in Pink - Block 15 Solstice Dream


The stitch along instructions and tips for Solstice Dream blocks include the needles and types of threads used in this project.  Thread colors are included in the pattern.  Book pages refer to those in the Right (or Left) Handed Embroiderer's Companion available in my Etsy shop.


We are ready to stitch the final block in Solstice Dream and you have already used all of the stitches in earlier blocks.

For the large pink flower I chose a Kaffe Fasset cotton fabric named Roman Glass which was appliqued in place with the needle-turn method.  I recommend that you do not use a fusible product on the back of the cotton as it will result in a flat flower that is difficult to stitch through when you add the other layers.

Flower center:
Stitch French Knots (page 94) with 2 wraps in an oval shape using Silken Pearl #5 in a #24 Chenille needle in the center of the dark pink.

Tip: Draw an oval shape on freezer paper and iron the shiny side onto the dark pink.  Stitch the French Knots around the freezer paper to obtain the oval shape.

Remove the freezer paper and with a contrasting color of Silken Pearl #5, fill the oval with more French Knots.

Add Pistil Stitches (page 94) of varying lengths radiating out from the oval using Silken Pearl #5 in a #24 Chenille needle.  

Outline the dark pink flower center with short Drizzle Stitches of 5 wraps (page 81) using both Silken Pearl and Dazzle thread in a #1 Milliner needle.

Outline both the orange flower center and the large pink flower with Bullion Knots (page 18) using Silken Pearl #5 in a #1 Milliner needle.

Stem:
Use Sea Grass in a #24 Chenille needle to add side-by-side Fly Stitches (page 91) along the stem.

Leaves:
With the same Sea Grass, Fly Stitch (page 91) along the center of each leaf.

Bees:  
Follow the same instructions as on Block 2 using Dazzle thread in a #1 Milliner needle.




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Wednesday, January 3, 2018

Take Flight - Block 14 Solstice Dream


The stitch along instructions and tips for Solstice Dream blocks include the needles and types of threads used in this project.  Thread colors are included in the pattern.  Book pages refer to those in the Right (or Left) Handed Embroiderer's Companion available in my Etsy shop.



Sometimes in art, items don't always need to be in scale.  For example, in reality a bird is very tiny compared to the size of a tree.  However, as you look at this block you see a bird flying over a tree even though the scale is off.  Keep that "permission" in mind next time you want to draw a design.

By now you are familiar with most of these stitches and will be able to embellish this block quickly.

Bird:
Wings:  Outline the front wing with Bullion Knots (page 18) using Silken Pearl #5 in a #1 Milliners needle. Switch to a #24 Chenille needle and Dazzle thread to add feather stitch on both wings.

Belly:  Using Silken Pearl #5 and a #24 Chenille needle Back Stitch (page 10) around the belly.  Begin at one "pointy" end and count your stitches as you proceed to the other "pointy" end.  Continue around making certain that you have the same number of Back Stitches on both sides of the belly.  Weave through the Back Stitches using the same thread in Double Pekinese Stitch (page 14).

Tip:  I prefer a #1 Milliner needle for this weaving, using the eye-end of the needle to avoid catching the fabric as you weave.

Using Dazzle thread and a #24 Chenille needle, whip the Back Stitches to add a bit of contrast.  Add 4 Fly Stitches (page 91) between the woven belly and the tail.

Tail:
Make 3 Double Cast-On Stitches (page 40) at the tail with Silken Pearl #5 threaded in a #1 Milliner needle.

Beak:
Use Silken Pearl #5 to Satin Stitch (page 132) the beak using a #24 Chenille needle.

Eye:
I used a small bead about 1/4" in diameter stitched in place with a cotton thread.  Surrounding the eye is a Bullion Loop (page 20) stitched with an Extra Long Darner needle and Dazzle thread.  My eye bead required 35 wraps on the needle.  I secured the loop in place around the bead with a few stitches using the same thread.

Outline:
Pekinese Stitch (page 13) around the bird using Silken Pearl #5 for the back stitches and Dazzle for the weaving in a #24 Chenille needle.  Don't add this stitch around the beak or the front wing.

Tree:
Leaves:  
Using a #5 Pearl Cotton and #24 Chenille needle, Fly Stitch (page 91) in the center of each leaf.  Add a French Knot with 1 wrap at the end of each stitch using Silken Pearl #5.  Outline each leaf with #5 Pearl Cotton.

Lady Bug:  Refer to Block 12 for instructions on stitching the Lady Bug.

Stems:
Using Silken Pearl #5 in a #24 Chenille needle, cover each stem in Herringbone Stitch (page 100).

Just 1 more block to go!




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